From the mini-painter list... more words of wisdom from Judith Norwood. 

First a bit from madog_barfrog in answer to the question:

Any recommendations for clear coat after the painting has been done?

Minwax Satin Polyurethane. Cheap & tough enough for floors.

I used to use Testor's dull coat, but it can yellow, so I've switched to Golden's archival spray matte.

Now from Judith:

2 coats of polyurethane and then a coat or 2 of dull coat as needed
work for me.Furniture polyurethanes are tough as nails. I can't think of any initial layer that would be more protective, and Golden's spray matte contains UV protectants to help keep your paint colors from fading or shifting with exposure to sunlight.

If you're going to be doing a lot of transport, consider adding an extra layer of the polyurethane on the tips of weapons and other extended bits that will take a lot of rubs and knocks, and also consider lining your foam carrying cases with plastic grocery bags. They'll prevent the slightly-abrasive surface of the foam from gradually scraping at the paint over time.

On Golden's matte:

If you use it lightly and hold it at the distance specified on the can, it's extremely matte. Heavier coats can take time to flatten out, but back when I lived where spraying was practical, I never had a mini take more than a day or two to become as matte as Testor's.

I have equally good luck with the brush-on, now that I live where spraying is a PITA, but it took a bit of experimentation with how much to thin it and how thickly to apply it. If you apply too thick a coat of the brush-on, it can also take a day or two to become fully matte.

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